Buttonhole-sewing machine.



G. w. NELSON. auIToNIIoLE sfwING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILEDIuLY 19. I9I3.

Patented Nov. 20, 1917.

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Patented Nov. 20, 191?.

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G. w. NELSON. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED )ULY 19.1913.

Sw Nw WN G. W. NELSON.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE. l

APPLICATION min JULY 19.1913.

"menten Nov. 2o, 1917 1 SHEETS-SHEET a` @gif G. W. NELSON.' BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE APPLlc/Ilon man JULY 19.191.

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APPLlcAlKoN man JULY 19.1913.

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Patented Nov. 2o, 1917 7 SHEETS-SHEET E.

n Gs yv. NELSON. .BUTTONHULLSEWING MACHINE.' APPLICAT'ION FILED .H JLY 19.1913.

Patented N ov. 20, 1917.

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GEORGE NELSON, F CLEVELAND, OHIO, ASSIGNOB IO STANDABD SEWING ff MACHINE COMPANY, OF CLEVELAND, OHIO, A CORPORATION OF OHIO.

v'To 'all whom t may concern.;

if Be it known that I, GEORGE W.v NELSON,

l"citizen of the United States, and resident of a specification.

Cleveland. in the county of Cuyahoga and State'of` Ohio, have invented certain'new and useful Improvements in Buttonliole- Sewing Machines,.of ywhich the following is j This invention relates to button-hole kniachines the same being an improvement upon the buttonfho'le sewing machines disclosed iii'fmv prior Fatents Nos. 887,503 of May 12; ieosanfi 949,401, of February i5, 1910., Theprincipal objects of my presentinstitches made atv each end of the button-hole,

toE complete it;

vention` are to provide an improved button* hole sewing machine in whichthe several movements of he work-clamp are under I more perfect control, `for the purpose of obtaining an' even spacing of the button-hole stitches proper, z'. e.' the short stitches at the sides of the button-hole, and for regulating lthe number and length ofl-the barring operation of the main controlling mecha-y therefor; andto furnish in c onnection with the other parts, an automatic stop mechanism,. the operation of which'is not dependent upon the number of stitches 4 made, but which is operated in a predeterl'mined relation to the cycle vot' button-hole.-

forming operations. 4

Various other vfeatures of the invention not hereinbefore referredy to will be hereinafter described and claimed and are illus.-

Y"L-"trated in the `accompanying drawings in which, y

'Figurel isan elevation of a button-hole sewing machine embodying my present in veiition, the view being taken looking from l l'the right-hand side thereof as viewed from the front or sewing end of the machine;

Fig. 2 is a sectional plan of the same, the section being taken in line 2--2, Fig. l; Fig. 3 yis an under-side view of the mechanism, mainly that below the main bed-plate of the machine, showing the parts in positions. corresponding to those of Fig.

i i Speecation of Letters Patent.

'in horizontal section and plan,

BUTTONHOLE-SEWING MACHINE.

Iatented Nov. 20, 1917. p

nppiication inea any 19, 1913. serial No. 779,984.

2, that vis'to say, barring stitches and just inadvance of the automatic stopping of the machine after the completion of a button-hole;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged, vertical, sectional elevation showing the parts when in position t u' bar-stitching, -as in Fig. 3, the sec'-V tion being taken in `line 4-4, Fig. 1, looking toward the front orsewing end ofthe machine, as indicated by the arrows;

Fig. 5 is a similar view looking toward the rear end of the machine, the 4section be-y ing taken in line 5-5, Fig. l, and showing the parts in positions corresponding to those illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4; i

Fig. 6 is'an under-side view similar tov Fig. 3, of a portion of the machine,and illustrates the parts in position for making the ordinary short or button-hole stitches;

Fig. 7 is an enlarged transverse section andv elevation -of the same, the section being taken in line 7-7, Fig. 6., looking inthe direction. of the arrows, and the partsbeing in the vsame positions as in Fig. 6

Fig. 8 isv an enlarged in position for making4 detail illustrating in horizontal'section and plan variouselements ot the main operatingmechanism for imparting longitudinal and transverse movements to, and controlling these movements-of, the work-clamp, the parts being in the same positions as in Fig. 2;

Fig. 9 is an enlarged detail illustrating with the sectionttak'en at a point below the bed-plate of the machine, other portions of the operating mechanism for imparting longitudinal and transverse movements to the workclamp and for equalizing such longitudinal movements, andalso shows means for-autoinatically stopping the machine on the com'- pletion. of a button-hole, and

Figs, 10 to 13 inclusive are trating iii plan and partly in. section various` positions of the vmechanism for imparting longitudinal and transverse movements to they workfclamp and for equalizing suchl longitudinal movements, Fig. 10 illustrating the last stage in the operation of making the button-hole, viz. themaking of the second group of barring stitches, while Figs.

second and third stages `deans uns;

to widthemaking of the first or left-hand.: Y row of stitches. the making of the first group E of barring stitches at the rear end of the :5.110

he reference numeral 2 represents a' main or fixed base adapted to be attached by suitable means, such as screws, to the top` of a sewing machine table or other support, and 3 represents the bed-plate proper of the machine which may be hinged or otherwise connected to the-part 2 in any suitable manner, and carries in this case all of the operating parts of the machine. At the front end of the bed-plate 3 there is the usual plate, 4, having therein an elongated opening 5, of the usual form for permitting the descent of the needle and also, at the proper Y time, of a knife for cutting the button-hole.

The work is clamped in place, as usual, in

a work-clamp, the upper and lower clamp.

lates of which are here indicated by 6 and The upper clamp-plate is mounted on an arm that extends both rearwardly and toward the right of the machine,this arm be-v ing indicated at 8 and being mounted so as to move both horizontally and vertically, the latter movement being preferably about a horizontal axis. This horizontal .axis of Y the arm 8 is indicated at 9, which'shows a pivot-pin mounted inlugs rising from a lateral extension, 10, of the main slide, 11, by which the lower clamp-plate 7 is carried.

he main slide 11 for the clamp-plate is mounted to move back and forth on a central fixed plate 12 between suitable guides, such as 13 and 14. Near its center this slide has a projection, 15, rising therefrom to which is pivoted, at 16, a connecting-rod or link, 17, which constitutes the principal means for transmitting longitudinal movement forward or backward to the work- At its rear end this connecting-rod is pivoted to `a crank-disk 18, mounted for rotation on the plate 12 near the rear end thereof, Asaid crank-disk having in the upper surface thereof a diametrical slot, 19. In this slot 19 a pivot-screw, 20, is mounted tance (within limits) from the center of said crank-disk, to correspondingly regulate the extent of the longitudinal movements of the slide 11 for making a buttonhole, it being understood that this crankdisk is intended to have a step-by-step movement similar to that set forth in4 my prior patents aforesaid.

One of the principal features of the present invention is the provision of operating ed in the overhanging arm of the machine', has two eccentric rods 22 and 23, by means of which movement is imparted to a pair of .rock-arms movable about horizontal axes.

One of these rock-arms is illustrated at 24 and is secured to a short rock-shaft, 25, carried by suitable bearings (here shown as pivot-bearings) supported by lugs, such as 26 and 27, depending from the under side of the bed-plate 3 and integral with the SeC- ond of a pair of depending ribs or longitudinal flanges, 28 and 29, also integral with said bed-plate. The rock-shaft 25 in turn has an upwardly projecting rock-arm 30 the upper end of which projects through an opening, 31, in the bed-plate into position for operating a transverse slide, 32, by means of which movement is transmitted to the crank-disk 18 to turn the same step-by-step.

plate between the side walls of a guide-way indicated at 33. The range of movement of this slide 32 is preferably adjustable, as by means of an adjusting screw, 34, in the upper end of the rock-arm 30, which coperates with a vertical lug, 35, at the extreme left-hand end of the slide 32, for the pur- I pose of controlling the range of movement The movement of the slide to the left is determined by the stop-faces of the parts 34 and 35. The movement to the right is shown as determined by stops, such as 36 and 37, the latter of which is formed bv the front end 0f a block rising from the slide 32 anden which is pivoted,v at 38, a lever 39, the forward end of which is in turn plvoted, at 40, to one end of an operating lever 0r pawl, 41, (see Fig. 8) by means of which motion is imparted step-bystep to the crank-disk. Here the lever 39 has a pair of arms from which springs, such as 42 and 43, extend to suitable fixed stops, the spring 42 servingr to move the long arm of thelever 39 toward the crank-disk, while the machine (as seen in Figs. 2 and 8) serves n n a distance corresponding to the movement REST AVAILABLE ooP infimes vertical Walls, which annular groove is des` ignated by 44, and the lever 41 connected to the operating lever 39, which lever constitutes an operating pawl and has at its free' end a tooth 45, is adapted to coperate with the Wallsof the annular groove 44 for the purpose of imparting step-by-step movement to the crank-disk 18. .The operating pavvl for lever 41 is curved, as is shown in dotted to bite said Walls and turn the crank-disk of the slider This movement may of course be regulated as desired, though at each step the movement of the paWl, will, in the construction shovvnal\vays `be the same for a `given setting of the parts.` Obviously, on

the return. stroke of the slide 32 the tooth 45,

turning about the pivot 40 of its pawl, will i andvtooth just described, I also prefer tobe released fromthevvalls of the 'groove 44 and will slide freely therein to a position for obtaining a new grip upon thelvvalls of said groove. In addition to the operating pawl employ a hold-back pawl which may be constructed asillustrated at 48. This hold-back e .paWl is pivoted at 49, it being slotted. or divided at 50 to enable it'to pivot about the pin 49 and 'yet have a .slight longitudinal movement radial thereto, and this vpaivl also hasv a tOOth, 51,"Similar to thetooth 45 vand adapted to grip or pinch the walls of the slot 44 and prevent return movement of thev 'crank-disk. A spring is shown at 52 for normally holdingr the tooth '5l of this .pavvl in position for preventing'such return move` Ament.

The connections just described from the main drive-shaft through theeccentriclrod 22 and the connections therefrom `to the slide32, the step-by-step movement just' described, and the-connecting-rod 17, are sufficient for the purpose of imparting to the work-clamp a longitudinal movement representingr the distance between the short or button-hole stitches to be made. For the purpose of determining and controlling' the length of each individual stitch, `whether a short button-hole stitch or a long'` stitch for forming a bar at the ends of the button-hole. means must of course be provided. as before stated, for shiftingr said Work-clamp sidewise and foralso determining and vcontrolling the position .and extent of these sidewise movements. The `sidevvise movement of the slide' 11 carrying the work-clamp will .also preferably be effected, from the main driveeshaft 21, the shifting mechanism Jfor lthe nf'orlcclamp diiering radically in this respectl from the mechanisms of my aforesaid patents. Here the main drive-shaft 21 has upon it a spn1-gear,`53, which meshes Withthe teeth oi a larger spur-gear, 54, carried by a short shaft, 55, substantially parallel with the shaft 21 and mounted in suitable bearings in brackets, 56, projecting from the arm orupper portion of the main frame of the machine, and covered, as indicated, byl a plate 57, for the purpose of forming valcasing substantially inclosing i l said. largeI gear,` and certain other parts.

The shaft 55 alsocarriesa.stop#collar` orrh disk, 58, between which and the large spurv gear 54,121. cam 59 on the shaft 55 Works.

(See Fics. l and4' This cam controls the operation `oi a vertical shifting lever, 60, the movements of which are so timed as to cause the clamp slide'll, through suitable connections. to be moved sidex'vise once at each operation of the needle, this movement sidewise takingplace onthe up stroke ofthe needle.. In the preferred construction', a

main cross-slide is provided which is oper- Y ated by thelevcr 60 and this cross-slide has not only a-,movement crosswise of the 'bedplate but it also ,hasr a crosswise movement the extent of which is dependent upon Whether short buttonhole stitches or barring stitches are to be made.

ln addition to this in the presentv machine there is not only a f in respectively by 62 and 63, the former be-` ing monntedeto slide transversely in a co1'- 'responding transverse guide-Way. 64, in the plate 12, While the latter is mounted to-slide transversely of the machine in a correspond.- ing. guide-way la the upper part of the t -main cross-slide, which guidenway is. alsoy disposed transversely of the machine. The auxiliary cross-slide. 63 is also located at its opposite yends by guides, 65 and 66, through which it slides, and is operatively' connected between `its ends to the-clamp slide 11 vto impart movement thereto by means of a pivoted block 63l on its under side engagingT the clamp slide within a longitudinal slot l1 therein. The vertical. shittingr lever 60 before tdescribed is pivoteddirectly to this auxiliary slide, as indicated at 67, by means of a pivot-screw passed through said lever and also through a 1119568,` rising from the upper vauxiliary slide 63. The extent of movement of the slide 63 transversely of the machine is dependent'. upon vthe 4stroke member to which said lever 6 directly connected to the lever 60.

of the lever 60, vrand this lever is intended to have a changeable stroke, one stroke of which corresponds to the desired length of the short or button-hole stitches and the other of which corresponds tothe longer barring stitches. In order to provide for this variation in the lengths of the stitches made, the fulcrum of the lever is, in this case, shiftable from one to another of two different points in the length of the lever 60, this fulcrum being indicated at 69 and being shiftable from the upper position, shown for. example, in Fig. 7, which corresponds to the making of short or button-hole stitches, to the lower position shown in Fig. 4, which corresponds tol the mal'ring of the longer barring stitches. The difference in movement of the proper cross-slide 63 is controlled by the difference in the distance in the two cases' between the fulcrum 69 of the lever 60 and the point 67 at which said lever is pivoted to said slide 63. In addition, howl ever, to this change of leverage there is also provision made for changing the position of the main cross-slide 62 and with it of course that of the auxiliary cross-slide 63 whicSh is aid main slide 62, in addition to supporting the auxiliary slide 63 which is operated at each stitch by the lever 60, also has a depending 0 is fulcrumed and which serves to shift said fulcrum, as well as the slide 63 and the point of connection 67 between the lever 60 and the slide 63, from one to another of various positions corresponding respectively to positions for a. right-hand button-hole stitch, a left-hand button-hole stitch, and a barring stitch. Thisdepcnding member, indicated at 70, constitutes a guide, it having a guide-way, 71, in which there is mounted to slide a block, 72, which carries the fulcrum 69 of the lever 60. The fulcrum screw 69 is slidable 1n this vertical guide-way 71 between the positions shown in Figs. 4 and 7 respectively. At each stroke of the needle the shifting lever 60 moves the cross-slide 63 toward the right or the'left of the machine and thereby turns the connecting clam plate or slide 11 about its fulcrum 11" to impart the necessary sidewise movement to the work-clamp for properly presenting the' work to the sewing mechanism in the formation of a button-hole stitch. Whether the terminal points of these stitches are the ends of a right-hand stitch, or a left-hand stitch, or a barring stitch, will depend upon the position of the main slide 62. Of course the positions of the terminal points of each individual stitch will be determined by the position of the cam 59 at the right yor left extreme position (see Fig. 4) and also upon the position of the fulcrum 69 vertically (see Figs. 4 and 7). Any suitable means may also be employed sleeve.

stantially fro trolled as to operate substantially in the same timing. The mechanism here illustrated for controlling the fulcrum-shifting means comprises a long rock-shaft, 74, extending subm end vto end of the machine and supported, as in the case of the short roclcshaft 25, by pivot-bearings, 75, carried respectively by lugs 76 and 77, at the opposite ends of the machine. This shaft is shown as having thereon a sleeve, 78, mounted to turn on the rock-shaft and carrying a rock-arm, 79, which has a loose connectionpreferably a pin-and-slot connection as indicated at 98-with the free end of a long lever, 80, secured to a sleeve, 81, mounted to turn .freely on the roclcshaft 25. A. strong spring, 82, normally holds the lever 80 up with a lateral ear, 83, in position to coperate with a pair of substantially semicircular controlling cams, 84 and 85, carried byand movable in unison with the crank-disk 18 and constituting parts of a. rotary-controller adapted for governing various operations of the mechanism. Each of these cams 84 and 85 rises from a low point to a high point, as indicated in Fig. 3, oli which high point the ear 83 is adapted to drop Under the action of the spring 82 with a quick let-off movement for a purpose to be presently described. The position of this lever 80 serves to control the action of the fulcrum'shifting lever before referred to for raising or lowering the fulcrum 69 of the shifting lever 60. This fulcrum-shifting lever is designated generally by 86. It is shown as secured to a short sleeve, 87, loosely mounted on the rock-shaft 74 between astopcollar, 88, and the forward end of the sleeve 78, so that the fulcrum-.shifting lever is at all times free to turn on sail rock-shaft. The sleeve 78 is also shown as having a short rock-arm, 89, projecting radially and laterally therefrom to .form a hook adapted to work in the path of said fulcrum-shifting lever 86., A strong coiled spring is also shown at 90 as wound around the long sleeve 78 and as having its rear end connected to said sleeve and its forward end bent toengage the upper side of the fulcrumshifting lever near the periphery of said This fulcrum-shifting lever is bifurcated at its free end to straddle the shank of the fulcrum screw 69, (see Fig. 7) and also has, close to the rear end of such bifurcation, an angular detent, 91, which, when the fulcrum-shifting lever is in its uppermost position, is intended to be held by a latch, such as 92', pivoted on the under side of the plate 12 and normally pressed by a. spring, 93. toward said detent 91. At the end opposite that at which this latch 92 engages the angular detent 91 of the fulcrumshifting lever 86 said latch has an extension, 94, .vhic'h projects into the path of rotary tripping or let-oil' means also movable, as are the'cams'. 84 and' 85, in unison with the crank-disk 18. This let-oil means may be any kind suitable for the purpose and may be adjustable or not as desired, but is'preferably adjustable in position for the pur-v pose of determining the point in the length of a button-hole at which the work-clamp will be shifted sidewise for thebarring 'action, etc. Here two adj ust-able plIates`,95-95,'

are secured, as bymeans of screws, to the under side of arotary controller movable in ment of the point of release of the detent by the latch 92 relative to the .point ot' rey75 'lease of the lever SO'When the ear 83 leaves the top of either cam 8l or ,85. Hence there is provision7 through this adjustment;;.fo, varying the `point 4at Which'the tulorhin-E5- shifting'lever ydrops to shift the pivotf69-0 to its lowermost position controlling that` unison with the crank-disk 18. and each of -these adjustable plates has a projecting nose or tappet, 97, adapted at a suitable point in the rotation of the controller, 96,`to engage the nose 94 of the latch 92 and release said` latch from the angular detent 9lof the ful Crum-shifting` lever 86, to permit the'latter to lower under the influence of the spring- 90. Obviously thelatch 92wvill be released in this case twice during each complete Arotation of the crank-disk, once near each end of the button-hole. 0n each rotation of the upper main drive-shaft 21 movement is imparted through the connections before described stepby-step to the crank-disk 18 and henceto the semi-circular cams 8l and 85 up one of W-hichthe ear 83 vor' the longv lever480 gradually rides swinging With it at the saine time about the axis of the shaft 74 the rock-arm 79, the sleeve 78 and the throw of the shifting?,` lever 60 which permit the making of the barring stitches at eitherL t end ot' the button-hole. `In other Wordsby l shitting either or both of the adjustable ietf` 1835 ofi devices or tappets 97 the point at which .l the `making of barring stitches at either or bothv ends of the buttolrhole beginsfmay beh; positively determined and hence Athe number l of barring stitches so made at either or '90 both ends of the button-hole may also be determined and varied, as Will be evident, si; @j within quite wide limits. Inthe construe-1?.il tion shown the point at which the making. of the regular or short button-hole stitches; )95 begins remains fixed, being determined the letoii" of the ear 83 from the high poing j of one or the other of the semi-circular cams l Sl andS. A I c The parts just described are sufficient toll) short rock-arm 89.. Before the ear 83 reaches the top of either of the cams 84 and 85, however, the spring 90, which is put under ten- .4.0

sion during` the turning of thejsleeve 78 has operated to swing the fulcruin-shifting lever 86 downward suddenly to shift the fulcrum y69 to the lowei'most position. ln other Words, during each complete rotation ofthe rotary controller carrying the Semicircular camszB-i and 85 the tulcrum-shitting lever 80 is shifted twice by the spring 82 to its uppermost position and twice by the spring` 90 to its'lowermost position, one downward and one upward movement occurringr near or atfeachzend the buttonhole. These Inove'inents'\l in opposite directions result from the fact that the springn S2 is not in a -conditionto'` act at time whenthe spring 9 0 is under tension and 'troni the tact that when the spring 82 is released its power is superiorto thatl ofthe spring' 90, the dowrr f nent ,oit` kthe ci'ulcrun'i-slntmg lever being,thus, assaired heforor'tlie ear 83 reaches the top otleither semi-circular 'in cline,`,a.nd,tlie upward movement of auch. lever being alsojassured when said ear drops off the top of one incline on to the bottoni of the other.A Of course, the spring 90, howu ever, .will be ineffective to lower theutul determine and 'control the points at which c;

for making long or barring stitches .and vice-versa.. The means for actually impari@ mg movement to shift said lever 60 and the mechanism vconnecting it with said Work-11i() clamp to the right or to the left of the but` ton-hole will now-be described.

The mechanism for actuating the smlnagfi; 1g A mechanism may be any suitable for the purr. v-

:'Ill short or button-hole stitches to a position pose. That shown herein comprises a rotary cani, also 'preferably movable in unison with 1 the cranlcdislt 18 and the controller 96,y and this rotary cam inthe construction shown o erates a shifting-'oar 99 havinA at its e. 7 v 7 frontend a long guide slot, 100, adapted to engage :i i1lcrum-bloek, 10.1carried by la l pivot member, 102, adjustably mounted in a longitudinal slot, 103, in` the plate l2. The l" rear end of this shiftingbar is shown as havingat its under side an anti-friction. 12,5

in the upper Atace of the'- rotary cam 105: aforesaid, The groove ot this cam 1s shown (see Figs. 9 to 13) as havingv four main partm'designated respectively by 10G7 107, 130

' roll, 10ft, adapted to travel in a cam-groove 108, and 109.' These sections of the camgroove of cam 105 correspond respectively to' the making of s hort stitches at the lefthand side of the button-hole, the making of barring stitches at the rear end, the makin of short stitches at the right-hand side an the making of barring stitches at the frontend, as indicated clearly in Figs. 10 to 13 inclusive, the first of which represents the last Set of stitches and the last three of which represent the first three sets of stitches made in said series of operations. As the cam 105 rotates it presents the cam-grooves 106 107,

l108 and 109 successively, and the shiftingbar 99 is oscillated by the cam to the successive positions shown in these views. These shifting -movements correspond to and effect the lateral shifting of the workclamp to its four main positions determining the making of the right or left-handzrow of button-hole stitches, orthe front or rear group of barring stitches.

From the shifting-bar 99 connection i's made to the main cross-slide 62 carrying the shifting lever 60 and certain other parts hereinafter referred tocontrolled by the rotary cam 105. The connecting means employed mayt also be any suitable for the vpurpose. In this case-I have shown a slide- -bar, 110, the free' end lof which-works in a guide, ,111, and the other end of which is secured to and constitutes substantially anV extension of the main slide 62, while near its center'said slide-bar is pivotally secured to the shifting-bar 99, said pivot 1being indicated a't 112. Thus through the connections from the cam 105. by way of the shifting-bar 99, -the slide-bar 110, the main cross-slide 62, the shifting lever' 60 and the auxiliary cross-slide 63, the main clamp slidev 11,

j which .is pivotally connected to said auxiliary eross-slide 03, is shifted at the proper time to any one of the four positions represented by the cam-grooves 106 to 109 inclusiveto permit the making of any one of the four sets of stitches used to form 'a complete button-hole. It will be clear frrm the foregoing that in 'each of these four positions up for makin the clamp-slide 11l has a erosswise movement thatv is determined by the swinging of the lever 60, and that this movement will be a swing in a short are when the pivot 69 is hole stitch, whllesaid lever will swing in a long are when said pivot 69i`s down for making a barring stitch at' either end of the button-hole.

Certain of the parts just described also constitute an important improvement uponthe equalizing means shown in my aforesaid prior patents for equalizing the longitudinal feed movements of. the work-clamp during the making of a button-hole. -The principal parts that copcrate in the present case to obtain this result are the crank-disk 18, the

vthat when this pivot point 20 Atloned that'said connecting-rod 17 has a 'considerable movement and-is moving toan ordinary. short-button-4 connecting-rod 17, extending from it 'to the longitudinal clamp-slide 11, the cam 105 rotatable in unison with said crank-disk and the shifting-bar 99 controlled by said cam.

again to Figs. 10 to 13 inclusive it will e seen that the connecting rod 17 and the clamp-slide have longitudinal movements of little or greater length according as the point of connection 20 of said rod By referring 'and the rotary controller is near to or far from the dead center position indicated .by the dot-anddash lines, and that the several principal coperative parts just referred to are so connected that the minimum feeding movement of the connecting-rod 17 longitudinally, and hence of the work-clamp, will take place when the cam-groove 107 or the cam-groove 109 is in position to coact with` the shifting-bar 99, and that the maximum feeding movement of the connecting-rod 17 and associated work-clamp takes place when in position to coact with the lever 99. By referringr to Figs. 10 to 13 inclusive the relation of these parts will be clear. It will be seen that thepoint of connection of the connecting-rod. 17 with the crank-disk 18 is so relatedto the positions of the cam-grooves 106, 107, 108 and 109 and to the point at which the antifriction-roll of the shiftingbar 99 coperates with said grooves, that when the point of connection 20 is so positioned that the connecting-rod 17 has but little longitudinal` movement the antifriction roll will be in one of the short camgrooves 107 or 109,. as indicated in Figs.. 10, and 12, during which period the barring ,It w1ll also, be seen 1S so posistitches will be made.

Ward or from its maximum point, said antifriction roll of the shifting-bar 99 will be in one of thecam-grooves-lOG or 108 controlling the making of the short or button- -hole stltches. `The parts are so related and parts previously Ade-k --the cam-groove 106 or the cam-groove 108 is,v

different periods inthe Aoperation of ma ring a button-hole, certain other parts are operated by said shifting mechamsm, one of these being a tenslon-releasnlg d vlce for re leasing the tension on the needle thread duz' the button-hole, and another of which is e shifting device for the lowenthread pull-off,

indicated generally by p.

The tension device for the' needle/thread Which iscontrollcd by this lateral movementJ of the shifting mechanism is indicated et 1413 and may be of any suitable type for the purpose. ln the present' construction its operation is shown es controlled by. a longitudinal rod, 114, Which is normally pressed toward the rear of the machine by u spring, 115, to permit yof: the tension ybeing applied tothe thread.l Neer its rear end this redis supported byz'uid guided in en opening pass! ing through :L lng, 116, depending from die neck of the fram'evvork. At a point` between seid guide and the spring 115 and relatively near the rear end of the rod'll connection' is made .to e suitable operatingdevice con -trolled by themnin cross-slide 62 for re` leasing the tension device 113 `from hel thread. These connections may lvof course be any suitable for the purpose vhere shown they comprise e ogggle, il?, pivoted at its ends,y .at 118 nn'dlllu respectively'7 lo the lug 116 vand to e fixed peint; in lgherod ll-land pivoted et 120 at its center ie the right- `hmid-end of e link, lill, v the opposite end of `which is pivetcd to the free end of u hoi-L zonal roclearin, 122, secured to lheu'ppcr .normally struck, is. srniffhtcned by the movemcnlJ of the short rocher lill,

inovei'ncnl; of itsliuks in end of a vertical rock-shaft', i523, mounted in suitable bearings in the neel; of the frame and in the plate 12 respectively, und carrying at. its lower end a sliorl, 'forked rocker; 1Q4f,`t-he f orlr of which strnddles e stop orpin, 125, in fixed relation with thc'innin 'crossslide (l2. These com'iecl'ions nrc such that al; every crosswise movement' of' the mein cross-slide 62 the toggle lil?. which is of the loggle movingy from eilhv-f or the left lo the straighl; line Cowling to the direction of mei'enic rocher lf2-i. lllicn che toggle is eilh e mmv from its cenlrul position ihn ci end of n rod, 13h the forivnillci ustable nut,

ton-hole in eachroW of button-hole stitches. ln order to do this il, is necessary' to reversel ythe timing of the pullfof upon the shifting e of the Workclamp for presenting the op o- 1' site edge Aof the button-hole to the stitching mechanism. This reversal of the timing relation or phase of the pull-off is controlled as before indicated,lfrom the shifting mechanism which includes the main cross-slide 62. The connections from this main cross` slide 62 to the lower-thread pnlLo may be my suitable for the purpose.` Here a depending bracket, `126, is secured to the 111i-, der side of the plate 12 and has7 at its upper end lower ends respectively, `velfmtical ,bezwiings 'fern rocl-shfl, 127,carrying at ifsl upper and lower ends respectively two roel errns, 12S and 199, 'the upper of ivhich'i im short forked rocker similar to that'shown' f Re and cooperates in e eorrespondingmnni. ner with n, piu, y130, secured to the/einden Y side of `he shifting-M1109, which, .asbefn pointed out7 is connected to thenex'ension ll@ of the :nain cross-slide 62, sorthatesai shifting-bnr und cross-slide Wilr moveI to1i290 ge'then fil; iis free end the ro linnn-:129 is pivotully connected in turn lio i rear f, which im;

shoulder et'thc opposite-en portion of the rod two spiiings5-, are intended to work 'lilie seperated from euch ,olgh sides of thehored e (fc reduced portion of rocher, i359 extend' 'es vo sulisence e p "in secured lo u the front en shs'ft il 'IES end weer roel(` elle rear riengnl: y y unen it, :and be rocked, beck end Iforzh by :it

' lng link, 148, pivoted drive-shaft- 21.

intermittently once for each two rotations of the looper-shaft 145. The rocking motion of the arm 136 will of course be transmitted to its rock-shaft 137 (then in its extreme rearward position) and by it to a forward rock.- arm, 146, slotted at its free end to surround the rear end of a pin, 147, carried by a rockat its left-hand end to the lower end of a pivoted lower-thread pullolf p, the pivot of which is indicated at 151. .At its right-hand end the link 148 has pivoted thereto-a block, 148,.movable in a slot curved on an arc struck fromthe pivot of connection of the link and said thread pulloff, the link itself being movable in a slot in its own plane, both of these slots, which are designated respectively by 153 and 154, beirg formed `in a slotted rock-arm, 152, secured to the long rock-shaft 74 operated 'by the eccentric-rod 23 from the main upper By thesev connections the link 148 will be oscillated from the rockmanner controlled by the conjoint action-of the two rock-shafts'-137 and 74, that isl to say, said pull-olf at .every alternate stitchforming operation is shifted'by the rocking of the shaft 137 to a position for drawing olf' the additional amount of Ilower thread vheretofore referred to. The rock-arm 136 remains upon the cam 144 throughout the `making of the first rowfof button-hole stitches and throughout the making of the rst et of barring stitches at the-rear end oft 'y buttomhole, andupon'the rising'l of theipivot 69 of the shifting lever 60 to shorteh the stroke of said lever said rockarmill, whichis grdtluyally shifted forward during the' making of the barring stitches, leaves theV cam 144 ,a d travels upon the neutral or circular pb ion 140-of-l the hub, by 4the action of a 'lly turns the rockafter,' on the shifting f'the mainl cross-slider 62 into position for fprming the second row of button-hole stitches, the mechanism controlling the longitudinal movement of the rock-shaft 137 is operated by said slide and shi 'the rock-arm 136 quieklyon to the opiosite triangular cam 143,the rock-shaft 137-with its arm 146 m )ving forward at this' time. This action' reults in reversing the timing relation of the u l-off action ,for the lower thread to assure t e formation of the purl at theinner edge of the' succeeding row of short button-hole stitches.`. ln this shifted position of the rock-arm 136 the sp'rin 134 is put under tension and serves tohol the parts just described in their forward position, while when in theopposite position the tension on the spring 134 is released and tension put upon the spring 133 to hold said naled in the lower and carrying at its end of the a Vcam formed upon the crank-disk 18. and

parts in their rearward position, z'. tension is put upon one spring and released "from the other in one condition of the parts and 1s put upon the second spring and released from the irst inthe opposite condition of the arts. I

T e spurgear '141 which controls the movements' of the triangular cams and forked rock-arm just described is driven, in this case, from the looper-shaft 145 by a spur-pinion, 156, in constant mesh therewith. Said looper-shaft in turn is'l'driven from the main upper drive-'shaft through sprocket-wheel and chain eonnections indicated at 157,- 158 and 159. The lower sprocket-wheel 159 is carried near the ex treme rear end of a short shaft, 160, jourforward end a slotted rock-arm, 162, in the slot of which works a crank-pin 163. carried by a crank-arm, 164, secured to said looper-shaft, which shaft has its axis at some distance below the main lower drive-shaft 160. This construction of course is for the purpose of obtaining the desired variable rotary movement of the looper-shaft and. hence of the looper itself,

as will be obvious.

On the completionlof-a button-hole, consisting oftwo longitudinal rows of short or button-hole stitches andtwo transverse sets of long barring stitches at the ends of the button-hole, it is customar to complete the button-hole by cutting tlie fabric 4between the lines of.stitching. For this purpose a cutter and cutter-bar are employed which are operated in proper timing the other mechanism. The button-hole-cutrear main bearing,' 161,

with l ting means employed here is quite similar to that disclosedinmy aforesaid patents. The

cutter proper is indicated at 165 and is of,

well-known construction. It is shown as carried at the forward end of a cutter-bar made up of two main parts Vboth of vwhich are movable in unison about a vertical axis and one of which is movable relatively to the other about a horizontal axis. These two portions of the cutter-bar are designated respectively by 166 and 167, the vertical pivot of the two being indicated at 168 and being carried by the plate 12, while the horizontal pivot is indicated at'169, it being a pivotpin passingthrough two pairs of depending lugs integral respectively with the two parts 166 and 167 of the cutter-bar. A spring 170 secured to a lateral extensionof the rear end of the forward portion 167 of the cutter-bar and to a fixed point on the frame-work serves' to swing the cutter-bar as a whole about its vertical axis 168 to keep the rear arm 166 in proper relation with also serves to rock the forward arm 167 of thel cutter-bar about its horizontal axis, when said bar proper is depressed at its foras to t into a notch, 172, in

' side ofa block)17 3, secured to the lower end y'tion of its length, the

80 l' vice, 179,

ated .bya tripwith the crank-disk and with the releasing,-

of a cam, 176, formed at of ,the needlear, 174,.'carrying the needle n.\. l.'l`he ,construction Vis such thatat the proper point in theoperation of the machine ,thel linger 171 will swing toward tlie lefthand side of the machine into the no t'ch 172 as theneedle-bar isdescending and will be locked in said notch and carried down with the needle-bar to force the knife 165, through ,theopening 5to cut the opening in the button-hole, At its rear end-the arm 166 has a linger, 17,5,- which rides on the periphery the upper side of the, crank-disk 18. `The periphery of this cam is. circular throughout the major poraway toforma quick let-0H face, 177, and a gradual rise, 178, these two cam-faces forming. between them a cam-notch covering` an gmarc.. of abouty one-sixth of' a circle. The

" filncti Aon of this cam is to permit the .rear endf175 of thecutter-bar to swing into the notchy andthe forward end 171 to swing-into the Anotch 172 in the needle-bar, Normally this Amovement is prevented by a latch deof angular form having a latch, 180,.pro per adapted to engage an angular detent,.181, on the under side of the cutterbar 'near the rear end thereof, and hold said bar with its 'forward end out of the path ofthe4 needle-bar, as shown in Fig. 2. At its rearend the latch device17'9, which is normally pressed into engagement with the detent 181 bya spring 182, has a releasing finger, 183, ada tedto be engaged andoperger, 184,'movable in unison cam just described. This finger 184, may be. adjustable as shown.. At the vpoint in the operation of the machine,to wit, alshort distance inadvance of the automatic, stopping of the machine, the tripfinger 184 moves the releasing linger 183 to the left of the machine to release the latch proper 180 from the detent 181, whereuponthc forward end of the cutter-bar will be swung into the notch 172 as before stated. The tripping of the latch 179 takes place almost immediately after the rear end` of the cutter-bar vhas dropped into the cam notch 'formed by the faces 177 `'and 178. After the linger 175 drops ofi' the cam" face 177 the cutter-bar is prevented from swinging into the notch in the needle-bar .prematurely 'by means of astop, 185,'-whichvin this `case is carried bythe secondary slide 63. This stop 185,111y the presenticase is formedfona swingsaid slide and havingfa .f screw-and-,slot' adjustment, as in-y n ingplate' pivotedyat 186 on cgdicated at 1:87;` fori obtaining a ne ladjust,-

A 2, 1912, Serial No. 681,208, in which `therel periphery being ct y ment with the fast pulley. The starting properl .i goods by the knife, the machine is intended to be automatically-stopped atthe proper point. In many respects the automatic stop mechanism employed for the purpose is preferably similar to` that disclosed in a companion application of mine liled March is illustrated means for clamping the fast 85 pulley of the machine between a ring surrounding the.` loose pulleyand an eXtension of the starting lever. Here the fast and loosev pulleys are indicated at 188 and '189,

the ring surrounding the loosepulley by 190 and the starting lever by 191. The starting lever when swung forward about itspivot,

193, forces the loose pulley into firm engagelever 191 is substantially L-shaped with a 95 forward upward extension, 194:, having a friction member, 195, adapted to coact with a gradually rising cam-face, 196, on the face of the pulley 188.` Bysuitable connections the ring 190 and the upward extension 194 of the starting lever are simultaneously moved in opposite directions, theseconnections comprising a toggle, 197, connected with thelower end of the starting lever, and with a fixed point Von the main frame, which toggle is connected by a link, 198, with a rock-shaft, 199, having a fixed rock-arm, or trip-dog 200, and a loose rocker, 201, adapted to be connected to a pedal for resetting the automatic stop mechanism in the position shown in Fig. 1 after it has operated. Said connections also egnbody a link, 202, connecting the lower end of thering 190 to suitableI means (including an eccentric, not shown) for'swinging the lower end of said .ring 190 backward or forward in a direction -1 spring, 203, servesto straighten the toggle and force'theparts 190-and 194 into engage'-` vment with the pulley 188 while at theame time reitasig the pulley-189 vfrom thep'ly ii-,yjiaa The advantage -05 this automatici-36" 4 'stopping means, as pointed out in the aforepoint in the cycle of operations. n abutton-sewingmachine the stopping point bears a predetermined relation to the number of stitches used for sewing on a button. This is 'not true, however, in a button-hole machine in which the number of stitches may H be varied within quite wide limits, according to the length of the hole or the quality Vof the .button-hole stitch, which is determined by the number of stitches taken to a hole of a given length. In order to avoid the necessity of accurately adjusting the stop motion for every adjustment of the machine for button-holes of different sizes, or quality, or both, l provide means for timing the automatic stopping of the machine at a fixed point in the cycle of operations, 're- 'gardless of changes in the adjustment of the button-hole sewing mechanism proper here- .inbefore described. Any suitable mea-ns may be' employed for this purpose. In the preferred construction the means used is such as to assure the automatic stopping of the machine substantially at a predetermined point in the operation of the brake before described, notwithstandingr the fact that there is in the present machine no fixed relation between the driving wheel and the main controlling device to bring about the operation of the automatic stopping mechamsm. Here two separate devices are preferably employed for controlling the release of the automatic stopping mechanism each of which is shown as a trip-lever coperative with the rock-arm 200. One of these trip-levers is indicated at 201 and the 'other at 205. `These trip-levers, as shown, havev a common pivot, 206 about which they turn independently, and the two are quite similar at the rear of said pivot, being in fact substantially identical gin construction attheir rear ends, cach having a hook or latch, such as 207, and 208,

adapted4 to engage the hooked end of the rock-arm or tripdog 200. At their forward ends the trip-levers diii'er jin construction,`

one having a relatively long arm and the other a relatively short arm Vand one beingl A controlled by a cam that releases it once to move back and forth on the plate 12 silbfj' per end of the finger216 is in constant enduring each complete cycle of operations, viz., substantially at the end of the cycle, while the other is operated once for every second operation of the needle.

In the present construction the main or short trip-lever 204- is adapted to be engaged. at its rear end by a short slide, 209, mounted ably, to permit the pivoted member to be turned gradually about its pivot and to push toward the left of the machine the depending member 210` and the slide 209 to which itis secured. "As shown in this view, the pin 210 is cut away to form a straight edge coaeting with the back edge of the hooked end of the pivoted releasing device,211. The tripping device 212 is so located as to actuate the hook211 to shift the slide 209 as before stated after the completion of the making of the four groups of stitches of the button-i hole and the cutting of the button-hole opening, the movement of the slide 209 being suicient to cause the release of the hook 208 from the hooked lower end of the trip-dog 200 vat the time stated. A`s the point at which the short trip-lever is released from the dog 200 does not bear a fixed relation to the movelnent of the driving Wheel it is likely to be operated out of time with the brake on the driving wheel. In order to prevent this the longr trip-lever 205 is provided, which lever holds the dog 200 after it has been i'eleasedby the main trip-lever 204 and doesnot release saiddog until the driving wheel reaches a fixed point in its operation, which fixed point is just in the rear of the camface 10G of said driving wheel. By preventing the release of the trip-dog until this point infthe rotation of the j driving wheel is reached the driving wheel gets the benefit of the brake for approximately twothirds of thclu'otation of said wheel.

The long triplever 205 is intended to be operated in timing with the lower-thread pull-oli, it heilig actuated in the present case by a cam movable in unison'with the oearwheel 141 that governs the action of) the thread pull-off. ',ln the present construction there is on the hub of said gear-wheel, in addition to the parts before described, a cam, ,213, which is substantially heart-shaped and controls the operation of a rock-arm 214, scoured to a relatively long sleeve, 215, loosely mounted on the long rock-shaft 74, said sleeve having at its rear end an upwardly .extending rocking finger, 216, mounted to work back and forth in a vertical slot, 217, in a guide-plate, 218, between which and the upper face of the bed-plate 3 the forward vend. of the trip-lever 205 is .guided The up- 65 stantially in line with the centerof rotation gagement with the forward end of said trip- 130 left.

enin l the (riving wheel and the a lever and a spring, 219, normally serves to move said lever and the finger 216 to the left (see Fig. 2).. At the proper point in the rotation of the gear 141 the heart cam 213 raises the -free end of the rock-'arm 214 suiiciently to rock the sleeve -215 and the linger 216 to 'a point at which the hook 208 will also be released from the depending rock-arm or trip-dog'200, whereupon the ower'of the -spring 203 will cause the imme "ate straightof the toggle 197, the uncouplin of plication o the brake in 'such amanner t at the machine will always be brought to a stop with the parts in a predetermined position, to wit,

; with the take-uplin its highest position and with the work-clamp at the same side of the button-hole whether tothe 'right or to the The spring 219 serves in this case `to restore all of the parts 205, 216,215, and 214 'to their normal positions. In a similar manner a spring, 220, serves to restore the short trip-lever 204 and .the parts coacting therewith, to wit, the slide 209, the pin 210 and the pivoted releasi device 211 to their normal positions afteiiihey have been shifted in opposition to the dction of said spring by thenoseof the rotary, tripping device 212.

`It .will of course be vevident thatin this machine either a whip or a purl stitch may Abe made. 'In making the whip stitch the vpull-oil? devicefor the lower thread isl rendered ineffective in some suitable manner, as, for' example, into a notch (not shown) in the controlling rock-shaft 137 for the lower thread.r

` v It is desirable to make provision for manually operating the rotary controller in ordery to move the'parts controlled therebywithout having to turn the fly-wheel of the machine. A s'uitabledevice for this purpose is the 'manual device or lever` 222 which co-acts with the forward end of the slide 32 to re- -ciprocate the same and thereby turn the controller'and bring about the movement of all vthe parts operated therebv.

The l'operation of the mechanism shown :'.`.j herein, constituting the subject matter of th`ework7c1amp is in its lforward position andv at theleft-hand sideof the1button-'ho1e. f

' operated, causes,

i the prsent n 'yplieation is as follows: At the so nfpulleysjam )io ,"operations' the fast and loose i course'coupled and the trip- ,doglliathed to the trip-levers 204 and 205,115 illustrated in Fig. 1, and these kparts o of course reinainin position for reventing i ithe uncouplling of the pulleys unti after the shorttri lever204 is released from said dog. at ,tlle the button-hole-stitch-forming and buttonhole-cutting mechanisms; At the` beginning of l the operationy of making. a. button-hole The main upperi drive-,shaftq21, bejngth'en mtlfw 22, the"v oscillation of the rockby dropping a latch, 221,

end of a cycle lof operations .of f

through theuactionof `the,

I90` underv'a' walls of the groove 44 in the rotary conf troller or crank-disk 18 and turn the 'same one step. On the return of the eccentricrod` to its originalposition and the Withdrawal of the rock-arm 30 from the slide 32 said slide and the dog will be'drawn back into position for a new feed movement. Each such step movement of course shifts the connecting-rod 17 and moves the main longitudinal clamp slide 11 one step lengthwise and with it the supported work-clamp t0v shift the work into position for a new stitch, this action continuing until all of the short stitches at the left-hand side of the button-hole have been made. During this olperation the work-clamp isalso moved t0 t e right and to the lift intermittently each time the needle rises from the' Work, this movement resultin in positioningthe work properly for the right and left-hand terminal points of each individual stitch. This oscillating movement oi' the work-clam crosswise of the machine is brought about through the oscillation ,of the main shifting lever 60 actuated by the triangular cam 59 through which intermittent oscillation of said shifting lever from thel main shaft 21 is obtained; and the pivot 69 of said lever being in its up er position at this time said lever of course v as a short stroke atits point of connection withtheslide 63 from which slide crosswise movement is directly transmitted to the work-clamp. During these operations of feeding the and shifting it crosswise, the needle ,is op. erated from the upper shaft in l 'pro er timing with said longitudinal and shiftm movements and the lower main shaft 145 connected to the looper is also operated in proper timing with the needle, but with the usual variable movement due to the connectionv illustrated at 160, 162, 163' and 164. During this period at every other operation of the needle the heart-cam 213 will oscillate the long` trip-lever 205 through the rockarm 214, the sleeve 215 and the rocking linger 216; but although at every other operation of said needle the hook released from the tri -dog 200 the machine will not be stopped ecause said dog-will still vbe engaged by the hook 207 of the short trip-lever @4. Simultaneously also with work-clamp endwise 208 will b`e g les the rotation of said heartfcam the triangular latter will oscillatetha rock-arm 136 back and forth to govern, through the rock-shaft 137, the action of the lower-thread pull-oh". As the main rotary controller is turned intermittently the ear 83 on'the lever 80 gradu ally rides 'up da facel ofoneofthe semicli-cular cams-'84 or -85 and puts the spring gradually increasing tension.

cams 143 and 144 Will be rotated and theY i t The rotation of the main controller con;y tinues until one of the releasing devices 9 position to give the shifting lever 60 its comes into engagement with and trips th latch 92, whereupon the spring 90 instantly shifts the fulcrum-shifting lever 86 to its\ lowermost position with the fulcrum 69 in f clamp to make a correspondingly long barring stitch, as indicated-in said Fig. 12, this stitch havin its terminal points located, as will be obvlous from said view, substantiall ,at equal distances from the center line of t e button-hole to bei formed. On the completion of the predetermined number of barring stitches (depending upon the adjustment of the tappets 97 before --escribed) the ear 83 will drop off the high point of the semi-circular cam on which it is at the moment and on to the low point of the 'other semi-circular cam. This movement is effected by the spring 82, which is also reffective to simultaneously turn the lfulcrumshifting lever 86 through the connections before described between the levers 80 and 86 thus causing therestoration of the fulcrum 69 to its u per position in which a relativel short osci lation of the shifting lever 60 1s permitted. Thereupon the work-clamp is shifted to the right-hand side of the buttonhole, as indicated in Fig. 13, bythe riding of the antifriction roller of the shifting-bar 99 intothe cam-groove 108, which sets the work-clamp in position for oscillation in a path back and forth crosswise of the machine for making the second or right-hand row of short button-hole stitches. At sub- 'stantially the same time the tension device 113 is applied again by the striking of the toggle 117, which was straightened .at the beginning of the making of the barring stitches. At the same time that the tension is released, as just described, the rock-arm 136 is shifted from the neutral pointof the hubl between the cams 143 vand 144 onto the cam 143.- Thereupon the lon itudinal movement of the work-clamp in t e opposite direction, that is, toward the rear of the machine, begins and continues substantially as before described and at the same time the transverse oscillation or shifting of said work-clamp betweenthe terminalpoints of stitches to be made at the right-hand side of the button-hole begins, this shifting movement also continuing throughout the making of the right-hand row of buttonhole stitches the fulcrum of the shifting lever 60 is chan edvagain to the lowermost position and te antifriction roll of the shifting-bar 99 rides into' the neutral or intermediate cam-groove l109, whereupon 'the work-clamp is oscillated again a longer distance crosswise of the mac ine for the making of the second set 'of barring Stitches,

as indicated in Fig. 10. -All of these operations just described are similar to those pre-l viously described in connection with the making of the first row of short stitches and the first set of long barring stitches, the second of the two releasing devices 97 o f erating however, in this instance to trip t e latch 92 prior to the riding of the ear 83 of the lever 80 o the high point of the second of the semi-circular cams. Of course immediately on the shifting of theworkclamp, by the movement of the shifting-bar 99 into the cam-groove 109, the tension device and the rock-shaft connected with the rock-arm'136 are operated again, said rockarm being shifted first to the neutral or central position on'the round part of the hub, where it will remain until the com letion of thesecond set of barring stitc es, whereupon the fulcrum 69 will rise again and immediately thereafter the rock arm 186 will shift back on to the other trian lar cam 144, the tension device being lslo shifted again at the Sametime. At the proper point in the movement of the main rotary controlling devices the cutter-bar is' tripped by the release of the latch 179 by the finger 184 and the forward end of said bar locks into the notch in the needle-bar and is carried down with said bar and o erated to cut the button-hole substantial y as set forth in my aforesaid patents. Shortly thereafter, on the rising of the cutter-bar, it -is latched again out of operative position by the latch device179, and when the trip device 212 oscillates the pivoted trip 211 the short trip-lever is released from thestopmcchanism. The rotation of the main driveshaft continues, however, until at the proper oint in the rear of the brake (before descri ed) the long trip-lever 205- is released in proper timing with the action of the stitch-forming mechanism, whereuponthe dog 200 is released and-the brake automatically applied to stop the machine.

1. In a button-hole sewin machine, the combination with a main driver, of stitchformin means operated thereby for stitching a utton-hole, a work-clamp, a controller having an ad'ustable rotary movement and being rotata 1e once for each cycle of button-hole-forming operations', automatic stopping means for the main driver and a pair of separately operative trip-levers coperative for releasing said automatic Y stopping means, one of. said trip-levers being Y v shiftable for 'controlling the shifting moveoperable by said controller .at a ypredetermlned point in the rotation thereof and the `other being operable by the main driver at a predetermined point in its rotation.

2. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a main driver, of stitchforming means operated thereby for stitching a, button-hole, a Work-clamp, a controller having an adjustable rotary movement and being rotatable once for each cycle of button-hole-forming operations, automatic stopping meansl for the main driver,

-and a pair of trip devices for releasing said automatic stopping means said devices bef ing successively effective in the order named, viz.l-a trip device operable by said controller at a redetermined point in the rotation thereof? i and a trip device operable by the main driver at a predetermined point in its rotation.

3. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a main driver, of stitchforming) means operated thereby for stitching a utton-hole, 'a Work-clamp, a cornrtroller having an adjustable rotary movement and being rotatable once for each cycle of y button-hole-forming operations,` automatic stopping means. for the main driver 1 tormin and including a rotary` brake member movable in timing With said driver, and a pair of trip devices `for releasing said automatic stopplngmeans said devices being successively effective in the order named, viz.-a`

:trip device operable by said controller at a predetermined point in the rotation thereof, and a trip device operable by the main driver at a predetermined point in the rotation of said brake member.

4. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a main driver, of stitchformin 'means operated thereby for stitching a utton-hole, a'fwork-clamp shiftable crosswise ofthe'machine through paths of different lengths corresponding respectively to short button-hole stitches and long barring stitches, a rotary controller governed 'by said main driver and rotatable once for each. cycle of button-hOle-forming operations, means governed by said rotary controller for'moving Said Work-clamp in said respective paths, and means: carried by said controller for varying thelength of time that the Work-clamp is moved in said barring path. y l

5. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination Withfa main driver, of stitchmeans operated thereby for stitch-( ing a utton-hole, a- Work-clamp shiftable crossvvise of the machine through paths of different lengths corresponding respectively tol short button-hole stitches and long barring stitches, a cross-slide to which said cloth-clamp is connected, and a shifting-lever governs@ by .Seid m'in driver foroper ating Ssaid cross-slide y andy having aiulcrum ments ofthe vvorl-claxnp.'` 6. In a button-hole sewing machine,'the

combination v With al main driver, of stitch-' different lengths corresponding respectively .to short button-hole-stitches and'long-bar- 11,75

ring stitching, a .cross-slide to which said Work-clamp is connected, `a shifting lever governed lby said main driver vfor `operating said cross-slide and having a shiftablelful- Crum, and automatic means for vshifting sfaid fulcrum to positions for controlling the making of either short stitches "or Abarring stitches. g l ri v7. In a button-hole sewing machine, the

combination with a main driver, of 'stitch-'5* forming means operated thereby for stitching a button-hole, ar Work-clamp shiftable vcros'swise of the machine through paths fof different lengths corresponding respectively `to shortfbutton-hole Stitches' andv 'long'b'ar-f ring stitches, a cross-slide to which saidv Work-clamp is connected, a rotary controller governed by sa'id main driver and'rotatable once for each cycle of button-hole-forming operations, means governed by said-rotary?! controller for moving said cross-slideltopositions corresponding to the lengths of'said stitches, and means carried by said rotary controller for varying the length `off-time that the work-clamp is moved said barring path.v l t A 8. In a button-hole Sewing mach'ine`,"-the combination with a main driver, of stitchforn'ling means operated thereby forjstitching a button-hole, a Work-clamp shiftable crosswise of themachine through pathsof different lengths corresponding respectively to short button-hole stitches'and long barring stitches, a cross-slide to which said Work-clamp is connected, a rotary controller governed by said main driver and rotatable once for yeach cycle of button-'hole-foringoperations, means governed by said rotary controller for moving said cross-slide tojpsitions corresponding to thelengthsof saild stitches, and adjustable means carried "by said rotary controller for varying'the'length of time that the work-clamp is moved'in said'barring path. j

9. In a button-hole sewing machine,`the combination with a lmain driver, oi-ffstitcihforming means operated thereby for stitching a button-hole, a Work-clamp shiftable crosswise ofthe machine through paths-:of different lengths corresponding respectively to short button-hole stitchesl and long bar'- ring stitches, a .cross-slide tov Whichsaid Work-clampis connected, a rotary controller governed by said main driver and rotatable once for each cycleof button-hole-'forining ios 

